What wine when?

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  Jason Yapp

  What wine when?

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Alexander Larman

What happened to the Rishi Sunak I knew at school?

For immediate gratification (of more secular rewards) I think the Languedoc-Roussillon offers both value and interest and the recent (post 2002) vintages have all been commendable. Picpoul de Pinet is a specialist micro-appellation producing exclusively dry white wines on the banks of the Bassin de Thau. Piquepoul (note spelling) is the grape and Pinet is the central village. These steely-dry, mineral-edged wines make for a bracing aperitif or oyster accompaniment and merit a wider audience.

The nearby red wines of the Costières de Nîmes have much in common with their more northerly cousins in the Rhône valley and are often terrific value. There is a wealth of spicy, southern Grenache fruit to be enjoyed here – ideal for barbecues and big family gatherings. Avoid expensive ‘special’ bottlings, which tend to be over oaked and over-priced. If one was looking for something a tad grander it would be a shame to overlook the underrated red wines of Pic Saint Loup. This impressive rocky outcrop above Montpellier is home to some of the Languedoc’s best wines that are revered in situ but little-known elsewhere.

For future indulgence I’d be tempted to stash away a case or two of decent Châteauneuf du Pape. Almost any recent vintage would suffice with the exception of the rain-plagued 2002, much of which should never have been bottled. Prices have crept up a little recently but there are some cracking wines on the market. Expect to pay in the environs of £300 per case for top-end estates all of which should have a comfortable 10 year drinking window.

Finally, I would be hard pushed to avoid the recently released Domaine de Trévallon in the short but superb 2003 vintage. This alluring blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah from the rocky moonscape of Les Alpilles de Provence has a wealth of sweet dark fruit underscored by succulent tannins. Already impressive this will be magnificent given a further 5 years bottle-age.

Jason Yapp is Managing Director of Yapp Brothers Ltd.
www.yapp.co.uk