Steven Mcgregor

Discovering bourbon on Brick Lane

It took an east London bowling alley to make me understand the taste of home

[Photo by Orlando /Three Lions/Getty Images]

Already a subscriber? Log in

This article is for subscribers only

Subscribe today to get 3 months' delivery of the magazine, as well as online and app access, for only £3.

  • Weekly delivery of the magazine
  • Unlimited access to our website and app
  • Enjoy Spectator newsletters and podcasts
  • Explore our online archive, going back to 1828

‘Some kind of Old Fashioned,’ I said, after a sip.

‘Plus a secret ingredient. A drop of Grand Marnier.’

‘Not bad.’

‘That’s how Kingsley Amis made them.’

‘Amis was a bourbon drinker?’

‘Thought it was a bit bland, but yeah, he drank it. Only thing I do different from him is with the Old Fashioned, I mix the sugar beforehand.’ He held up a plastic bottle of homemade simple syrup. ‘Otherwise you end up putting warm water in your glass.’

‘How’d you get into this stuff?’ I asked.

‘My mum always cooked with bourbon. Poured it in the mix for pecan pie when she was whisking the eggs. Carrots too. She browned them in a skillet on the stove first. Then she made a sauce with butter and this here.’ He took a slender bottle down from the shelf.

‘Four Roses.’

‘My favourite for cocktails, too. Has a higher percentage of rye so it cuts through with some spice.’ He took down another bottle, this one with a narrow neck and a fat body.

‘Old Fitzgerald.’

‘It’s aged 12 years and the mash has a high wheat content so it finishes nice and soft. Can mix with it as well.’ He pointed to a squarish bottle of Knob Creek. ‘Another small batch that’s good for drinking neat. Depends what you want, really.’

I sipped my Old Fashioned and my mind drifted. The citrus smell reminded me of the orange tree in the back yard of the house where I grew up in Florida. The colour was tannic, like the dark Wekiva River. This is what bourbon is all about, a drink of empty rivers and hot afternoons, of flattery and fighting words, of lonely nights in crowded bars. It reminded me of home.

Comments

Join the debate for just $5 for 3 months

Be part of the conversation with other Spectator readers by getting your first three months for $5.

Already a subscriber? Log in