Jeremy Clarke Jeremy Clarke

Low life | 31 March 2016

An encounter with holiness in an old stone monastery

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She sat. I knelt on the wooden kneeling rail and rested my forearms on the back of the pew in front. For the last two hours we had been walking in the open air and nattering cheerfully as we walked. But this sudden, rich, centuries-old silence and the darkness seemed to isolate us from one another, and once the entertainment value of these theatrical new surroundings had worn off, I found the atmosphere intimidating. I was wondering whether I ought to ask her what time the bar opened, or something similar, when I became conscious that my hostess was snorting back loose mucus and fidgeting about in a distressed manner, and seconds later I felt her rise and stumble past me, and heard the door open and shut.

Even thinking about making a joke now seemed a bit crass. I closed my eyes and tried to pray for my mother, who is undergoing a last-ditch, risky surgical operation in a few weeks’ time. I prayed first dutifully then passionately. Then I heard the click of a door latch in the inner sanctum, and an ancient nun, spectral in a long, snow-white habit and this extraordinary, butterfly-shaped headgear arrangement, came shuffling in behind a Zimmer frame. She moved the Zimmer forward an inch at a time and followed it with a fast shuffle. Her progress was agonisingly slow, her determination great. As a spectacle, it was captivating, even enthralling. The rattles and squeaks of the Zimmer frame and her shuffling footsteps were amplified by the stone walls and floor as though via a sensitive microphone and expensive digital sound system. She appeared to be heading towards the table — a distance of about eight yards — but her resolve was more than sufficient to carry her on to Jerusalem or Rome.

Yes, she was definitely aiming for the table. But what was she going to do when she got there? Blow out the candles? Would she have enough strength? Finally the amplified phantasm arrived at the table. Without pausing, she reached inside her habit, produced a soft cloth and briskly and rather prosaically dusted the surface. When she had finished, she replaced the cloth inside her habit and, gripping the table edge with arthritic hands, sank very gradually and painfully down on to her old knees. Gravity took over for the last inch or two and the excruciating noise of bone on stone echoed from floor to ceiling. And there she remained, directly facing me, an ancient French nun, silent and still and magnificent, in contemplation or prayer. If she was conscious of my presence at all, her atmosphere, I felt, signalled total acceptance of me and of the world as it was arranged at that moment.

I closed my eyes again and prayed with her. I prayed first dutifully then passionately that West Ham would take Manchester United to the cleaners in the FA Cup fifth round replay in a fortnight’s time under lights at Upton Park, and that I would be vouchsafed a ticket. Then I rose and went outside to find and console my hostess.

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