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  Simon Hoggart

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Alexander Larman

What happened to the Rishi Sunak I knew at school?

The Vatans, who make the Sancerre les Perriers 2006 (1), are not so small — they have nine hectares — but the wine is very fine indeed, with a richness to go with the usual grassy notes, plus hints of blackcurrant, elderflowers, and I’d hazard, apricots. The Sancerre people got a terrible shock from New Zealand: this is a measure of how well they’ve responded to the challenge. Reduced from £11.10 to £9.95.

Forget whatever you might think about Chenin Blanc, so often made into thin, weedy fluids, as if a child has spilled water into his sherbet dabs. This Savennières from Château de Chamboureau 2005 (2) is full, plump and utterly delicious. Savennières, in Anjou, was a favourite of Louis XIV and Napoleon, and you can see why: it’s got almonds, minerals, lime, and it will continue to improve for a long time. A gorgeous wine, reduced from £12.95 to £11.75.

Have you heard of the Collioure appellation? Probably not. It’s a tiny area at the southernmost tip of France, in the foothills of the Pyrenees. This Domaine de la Tour Vieille 2005 (3) is made entirely from very old vines — nearly one third Carignan, the rest Grenache Noir. The yields are very low, the grapes are hand-harvested, and the result is sensational — a great rich, roasted wine, bursting with powerful fruit and with a deep velvety texture. Imagine this with a great loin of beef, or winter casserole. Reduced from £11.95 to £10.75.

The Gigondas from the Domaine Saint Gayan 2004 (4) has been made by the Meffre family since 1400. It is a fantastic Rhône wine, with all the bursting, spicy, plummy flavours you expect, with a heady whiff of perfume too. This is really delicious now, but will go on improving for another ten years. If you have the patience. Cut from £12.25 to £10.95. Delivery, as ever, is free, and there is a sample case too.