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So what does the big cruise liner offer? Air conditioning, for one; relatively spacious cabins; room service; a wide choice of food; proper breakfast (toast!); in-boat entertainment; a fully structured day. At the luxury end of the market, the sites are almost an irrelevance: it’s the cooking, wines, service and status of guests that count. ‘Doesn’t Vesuvius look wonderful this morning?’ I commented to a posh cruise passenger in Naples. ‘Vesuvius?’ came the reply. ‘Where have I heard that name before?’
But the real value is at the other end. Seventy pounds per person per day to be transported round the Med for two weeks, all found, is an astonishing bargain, unless you prefer to spend your £70 travelling standard class from London to Carlisle. Admittedly, on the cheaper cruises the tours are extra, but at least you choose what to spend your money on (no option with the all-in packages).
Big ships do offer a very gregarious experience: Latin grex, gregis, a herd. But what do you expect? Experienced lines like Swan have been herding superbly since Salamis. You can always retire trembling to your cabin and stay there on room service, or when you dock, hop in a cab and do the sites yourself. But you cannot help but meet like-minded souls at meal-times, in the bars, at the talks, on the tours and for those who like the gym… (but enough of that). True, you may never see them again, but take comfort: that applies to the unlike-minded souls as well.
And this way you see, with minimum effort and maximum comfort, all the great sites from Venice to Istanbul, Naples to Dubrovnik, the Corinth Canal to Athens, Rhodes to Knidos. And to approach them by sea!
Big ships first. Then gulets.
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