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But it will be a slow process. The notion of terroir is embedded in French culture, and the idea of a wine that does not come from a particular place is as odious as Danish or Australian lager, mass-produced in British industrial plants, is to a Camra enthusiast.
So these wines, offered by the ancient Berry Bros. & Rudd of St James’s, are all firmly rooted in the places they are made. The offer is slightly more expensive than our usual mini-bar (though BBR has discounted every one by a generous 10 per cent), but all the wines are distinguished as well as utterly delicious. Three are French, but the first, Hewitson Riesling 2004, is from the Eden Valley in South Australia, a home of great Rieslings. These, as well as having a terrific intensity, also have — and don’t let this put you off — a faint whiff of petrol, a slight oiliness which makes them even more deliciously pungent.
I also loved this white Bordeaux, Ch. Villa Bel Air 2004. It has the backbone of Sauvignon Blanc with the round ripe flavour of the Sémillon. It’s oak-aged, yet still zesty, floral and tropical. A superb wine, and cheaper than any Burgundy of similar quality.
The Ch. Marsau 2001 is also a Bordeaux, from the small but excellent Côtes de Francs appellation. Robert Parker (breathe his name very quietly in British wine circles) praises its ‘gorgeous sweet nose’, notes the ‘blackberries, cherries, smoke and earth’ and gives it a vertiginous 90 points. It will keep and improve for most of a decade.
Finally, the Château de Trignon 2003 is a Gigondas, which is swiftly turning into one of the great southern Rhône appellations, with the best reaching Châteauneuf-du-Pape standards. As well as deep, dark berries, it has herbs and smoke, and would be perfect for the coming autumn.
Delivery as ever is free, and there is a yet more discounted sample case containing three bottles of each wine.
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