
So that’s another Dry January finally knocked on the head. Phew! For dear Mrs Ray, it was more of a persistently damp January with a few scattered showers and – the weather forecast was spot on here – one heck of a downpour on Burns Night. For a girl who claims not to like whisky, she can sure pack it away.
She pays for it afterwards, of course, and was a little piano during the final days of the month, just as I was cranking up the engines. I’m still slightly off my game, to be honest, but I was back in the vinous gym on 1 Feb, going through my paces with these all-French, all-red (apart from one fizz) treats from our confrères at FromVineyardsDirect, and I should be match fit soon.
According to FVD’s Esme Johnstone, the 2021 Mas Carlot ‘Générations’ (1) from Costières de Nîmes, south-west of the Rhône Valley, is the best-value red on their list. A Grenache/Syrah blend with just a stiffening dash of Mourvèdre, it’s fermented in stainless steel and aged in concrete, allowing the juiciness, freshness and spiciness of the dark berry fruit to shine. FVD have imported Mas Carlot’s wines for well over a decade, and when we offered a parcel of this very wine in August it promptly sold out. The price is even lower this time, so get your skates on. £12.50 down from £13.95.
The 2019 Ch. de Clotte ‘Tradition’ (2) from Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux is another old favourite of ours which we offered very successfully last summer. The intervening six months have been more than kind, and it’s bang on song, with soft, mellow cassis fruit and a touch of inky intensity. I love wines like this and still marvel that one can buy mature claret of this quality so cheaply. I know I bang on about it, but Bordeaux really can be wonderful value if you know where to look, such as here. £14.50 down from £15.75.
The 2022 Ch. Courac (3), from vineyards surrounding the Provencal village of Tresques, near Orange, is a Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun of real style, with violets and rose petals on the nose and plenty of jammy, spicy bramble fruit in the mouth. It’s perfect winter fare. £14.50 down from £15.75.
Bordeaux can be wonderful value if you know where to look, such as here
The 2022 Domaine Bicheron Bourgogne Rouge (4) is the red counterpart of FVD’s bestselling white wine, the Domaine Bicheron Mâcon-Péronne, which I’m sure you’ve enjoyed. This 100 per cent old-vine Pinot Noir is just as fine and just as keenly priced. Slightly muted on the nose, there’s plenty of silky, ripe cherry fruit in the mouth, followed by an appetisingly savoury finish, proving that fine Pinot needn’t cost the earth. £15.75 down from £17.45.
The 2020 Mas de Cadenet Rouge (5), from the sun-baked Côtes de Provence, is a 70 per cent Syrah/30 per cent Grenache red blend from FVD’s fabled rosé supplier. I found it a bit unyielding at first – that’s what a month on the bloody water wagon does for you – but on the second sip the lively, rich, spicy dark fruit flooded through, and I gave it a big thumbs up. It’s hugely enjoyable. £16.25 down from £17.95.
The 2022 Ch. de Fleurie (6) from Maison Jean Loron in, erm, Fleurie, Beaujolais, also scored impressively high marks. Made from 100 per cent Gamay, of course, it’s absolutely charming and so succulent it’s almost thirst-quenching, with abundant blackberry/cherry fruit and barely noticeable tannins. Serve it slightly chilled, sit back and enjoy. £16.50 down from £17.95.
Finally, the 2019 Cave de Lugny Brut ‘Cuvée Millésimée’ Crémant de Bourgogne (7), one of my all-time favourite fizzes that I’ve recommended countless times here, there and pretty much everywhere to anyone who will listen. It’s astoundingly fine, made in the champagne method from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir by the brilliant Cave de Lugny cooperative in Burgundy. Fresh, fruity, nutty, honeyed and toasty, it’s way, way better than many far pricier champagnes I could mention. It has bottle age and it has class and should be in everyone’s fridge. £16.50 down from £17.95.
The mixed case has two bottles each of wines 1-6 and wine 7 is available in unmixed sixes. Delivery, as ever, is free.
Order online today for download an order form.
To find out more about our Winemaker lunches, masterclasses and wine tours, visit spectator.co.uk/tastings.
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