Iwasn’t so much a kid in a sweet shop as a lush in a winery. I was at the Armit Wines annual portfolio tasting and, with 50 different winemakers presenting some 300 different wines, I was in vinous heaven. I had a clean glass in my hand, a free afternoon ahead of me and the faintest stirrings of an inquiring thirst. I couldn’t have been happier.
I would hate you to think I was there just to enjoy myself though. I was there to work, ferreting out the finest possible wines for you, dear reader, at the kindest possible prices. If I had fun on the way, got gently squiffy, found some jolly folk to chat to, so be it. You know how it is.
There were some fabulous wines on show and these are my absolute favourites, complete with very generous discounts. Fill your boots and make sure my day at the coal face wasn’t wasted. Hic…
The 2022 Domaine Laurent Cognard Mâcon-Loché Longues Terres (1) was the first to grab my attention, poured by the great LC himself. Crikey it’s good! I can’t recall when I last had such a tasty Mâcon at such a keen price. Fresh, supple, pure, with just a touch of sweetness to the luscious white stone fruit before finishing perfectly dry, it’s first rate. £17.16 down from £21.70.
The 2023 Fattoria Le Pupille Poggio Argentato (2) is a deliciously bonkers blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Petit Manseng, Traminer and Sémillon from Tuscany’s Maremma. Its herbal, orange blossom, peachy aromas lead to pear and peach in the mouth and touches of orange peel on the dry finish. I’ve not met a blend like this before and couldn’t resist it. Probably my wine of the tasting. £17.35 down from £21.60.
The 2020 Astrolabe Chardonnay (3) hit the spot, too. From a favourite producer of mine, it’s about as perfect a New Zealand Chardonnay as you’ll find, made in Marlborough from free-run juice, fermented and aged in new and old oak. It’s beautifully judged with restrained sweet, creamy, buttery, baked apple fruit and hints of fresh citrus. I can’t imagine anyone not lapping it up. £19.26 down from £24.19.
The 2023 Elena Walch Lagrein (4), from Italy’s Alto Adige, is a brilliant example of Lagrein, an indigenous grape I’ve never seen anywhere else. With Gamay-like aromas in the glass it’s full of fresh, lively, juicy, quite dense fruit, with a touch of tannin cloaking the savoury finish. I love it and snuck in a second glass to be sure. £17.92 down from £22.59.
The finest possible wines for you, dear reader, at the kindest possible prices
The 2022 Giacomo Fenocchio Barbera d’Alba (5) from Piedmont’s fabled truffle country is delectably succulent and herbal. Fifth-generation owner/winemaker Claudio Fenocchio makes approachable wines, and after six months in stainless steel and six months in large oak barrels, this is a joy, full of vibrant but dry bramble fruit and a keen acidity. £20.19 down from £25.25.
The 2021 Fattoria Le Pupille Morellino di Scansano Riserva (6), from the producers of that white stunna above, is similarly bewitching. Made from Sangiovese (known locally as Morellino) with a touch of sinew-stiffening Cab Sauv, it’s packed with juicy dark cherry fruit with hints of mint, balsamic, pepper and spice. Elisabetta Geppetti and her children make wonderful wines and not for nothing is she known as the Lady of Morellino. £24.35 down from £30.25.
Finally, the 2017 Pauillac de Ch. Latour (7), an absolute corker, a decent slug of which sent me on my very merry way at tasting’s end. Officially the third wine of mighty Ch. Latour, it’s far finer than that ranking would suggest, being an outstanding claret in its own right and as good as many a second wine or grand vin. Gosh it’s classy, with textbook plum, cherry, blackcurrant fruit, tobacco, leather, spice and goodness knows what else. I’d far rather eight bottles of this than one of the grand vin. Just saying. £71.31 down from £79.70. (Only 30 six-bottle wooden boxes available.)
The mixed case has two bottles each of Wines 1-6. Wine 7 is available in sixes and will be despatched at a later date. Delivery, as ever, is free for a dozen bottles or more.
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